Marketing Insight: thinking back to when jeans weren’t a wardrobe staple

It’s hard to believe now that, only 40 years ago, there would be a problem with the sale of jeans as today the likes of Levi’s, Wranglers and even a trusty M&S pair are an everyday staple in almost all our wardrobes. 

But if we go back to the 80’s, possibly the greatest decade for fashion (in my opinion), there was an explosion of youth culture. New Romantics, Soulboys, Young Casuals, Goths. You could find your tribe, the weirder the better. The problem was that none of these tribes were wearing jeans. 

Back then, in the US, Levi’s was associated with Ronald Reagan (i.e. old people)! Meanwhile in the UK, you had to look really hard to actually find jeans, usually in Millets.  

Ultimately, year-on-year sales for the former market leader, Levi’s, had decreased by 46% over four years. And the 501, Levi’s original jean from 1873, had suffered more than any other product. 

So, what did they do? 

On Boxing Day 1985 the now iconic ‘launderette ad’ aired.  

Nick Kamen enters a laundrette, takes off his Ray Bans, fills a washing machine with rocks, removes his t-shirt & jeans and puts them in the machine too. He then simply sits back and waits for the cycle to finish. The end line reads: “501 the original shrink to fit jeans”. 

The ad was deemed to be creative, raunchy and cool. Importantly, it sold van loads of jeans! It not only launched Nick Kamen’s career but also boosted sales of boxer shorts. In fact, it made such an impact that the ad had to be pulled as production could not keep up with demand. There was an astonishing 800% rise in sales. 

Media Innovation: how did Levi’s sustain sales and brand awareness? 

Let’s fast forward to today. Any brand cannot simply survive on a great ad that aired 40 years ago. Brands need to adapt and change with the times. This is exactly what Levi’s has done. With the rise of fast fashion, consumers are concerned about the environmental impact of what they are buying. It may feel like this is a new concern, but Levi’s has been leading the way in sustainable fashion season after season, introducing new products that combine innovative design with sustainability. 

The brand has been using less water in its manufacturing since 2011, saving a massive 13 billion litres of water. In 2021, it launched a ‘Buy Better, Wear Longer’ campaign to encourage more conscious purchasing decisions. And, my favourite, it released a plant-based Levi’s 501(!) made with 97% plant-based materials. Mixing old and new, with designs from past seasons and the future of clothing production in sustainable organic cotton, natural dyes and ink made from wood waste. 

In a full-circle moment for the brand, last year saw the launch of a new campaign in collaboration with global icon Beyonce following the release of ‘Levii’s Jeans’, a track from her new album. The ad featured Beyonce in a launderette, nonchalantly taking off her jeans and putting them in the washing machine whilst sitting in her underwear. The campaign was inspired by the legacy of the Levi’s brand and the forward-thinking vision of one of the most influential figures of modern culture. 

Accelerating Growth: increasing sales season by season

In 2023 the Jeans market was worth $71 billion, this is forecast to rise to $95 billion in 2030 (Source: Statista). By 2023, following year-on-year increases since 2010, Levi’s net sales had reached $6 billion. 

Brand awareness certainly plays a key part in Levi’s growth, but by pushing to the forefront of sustainability and product development, the brand continues to increase sales season by season. Whilst it’s difficult to attribute Levi’s sustainability goals to net sales, Levi’s is a leader in fashion sustainability, demonstrating a commitment to its values.  

So, did Beyonce’s song help boost business results? Levi’s Q3’24 results saw the sales of Levi’s 501 grow by 11%. Following a focus on growing the direct to consumer (DTC) business and the Beyonce ad campaign being activated across more than 3,000 DTC touchpoints, DTC grew by 10% in Q3. 

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